The Direct Test for Fanconi Syndrome and PRA-BJ1 (Progressive Retinal Atrophy, or Gradual Night Blindness) is now available!  Read more about it here!
If you are considering a puppy anytime soon, 
ONLY consider one from a litter where the parents are tested for BOTH Fanconi Syndrome and PRA!
All responsible and reputable breeders WILL test for these diseases, PRIOR TO BREEDING.

​What are the Health Concerns associated With The Basenji?

• Fanconi Syndrome -- renal failure.  There is a Direct Gene Test for this disease.  ALL breeding dog should be tested for this disease. This disease IS an eventual death sentence.  Since Fanconi Syndrome is a late onset disease, symptoms are generally not noticed until the dog has already gone into renal failure.  All breedings should have at least 1 Clear/Normal parent.  Here is an article that shows how Fanconi Syndrome is passed.
• PRA -- Progressive Retinal Atrophy, also known as Gradual Night Blindness. There is a Direct Gene Test for the PRA-BJ1 form of this disease.  ALL breeding dog should be tested for this disease. While this is not a death sentence, all breedings should contain at least 1 Clear/Normal parent.
• Hip Dysplasia -- degenerative joint disease of the hips.  Even though the Basenji is a 'medium' sized breed, it IS susceptible to this horrific crippling disease.  It appears to be polygenic in nature and therefore comes from both parents.  Some dogs may only produce HD with certain lines while others may produce it with any line they are bred to. Not a death sentence, but an awful, awful way to watch your dog age as it gets more and more crippled.  Dogs under 2 years of age may be pre-limmed by OFA, but they cannot get an actual certification until they are two years of age. All breeding stock must be tested. 
• Elbow Dysplasia -- degenerative joint disease of the elbows.  Passed like hips, all dogs should be tested.  Unfortunately, not very many folks are willing to test the elbows.  But, if they aren't tested, how would we know if there is or is not a problem?  Dogs under 2 years of age may be pre-limmed by OFA, but they cannot get an actual certification until they are two years of age. All breeding stock must be tested. 
• Patellas -- subluxation of the knees.  This is a simple exam performed by a general vet in the office.  Like elbows, there is very little testing being done on the patellas.  Some lines tend to have more issues than others, but without testing, we will never know the brevity of patellar issues in the breed.
• Thyroid -- hypothyroidism (underactive thyroid) and hyperthyroidism (overactive thyroid).  Can cause early sterility in both males and females.  Not a death sentence, but can attribue to social and temperament issues in dogs.  Easily controlled through medication.  All breeding stock should be tested.
• CERF/OFA Eye exams -- checking for anomolies in the eyes.  Should be done before puppies go to their new homes and prior to breeding and at least every other year once reaching the age of 6.  This can provide information for cataracts and the form of PRA that we do not have a direct test for as of yet.
• CHIC tests are the ones OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals) requires for a CHIC number and are recommended as MINIMAL TESTING for all breeding animals in a particular breed.  CHIC TESTS for Basenjis:  Fanconi Syndrome, PRA, Hips, Thyroid, and CERF/OFA Eye exams. CHIC TESTS for Italian Greyhounds:  Hip Dysplasia/Leg-Calves-Perthes, Thyroid, Patellar Luxation, and CERF/OFA Eye Exams. It is HIGHLY suggested by the IGCA that breeding stock be DNA tested for Familial Enamel Hypoplasia, Glaucoma, and PRA Susceptibility. 

"A man's soul can be judged by the way that he treats his dog."

​Choosing A Breeder

1.  It isn't commonplace for good breeders to advertise in the newspaper in these times.  Often, their pups are sold by word of mouth because of their reputation.  However, SOME responsible breeders may advertise in the newspaper at times, so one must use their judgement when reading the "pet classifieds". Another reason they may advertise is to offer the public another source to find a well-bred and health-tested puppy.  Otherwise, the general public will go to the pet store, backyard breeder, or puppy mill. Breeders can often be found online on a variety of puppy advertising websites.  Be care, screen wisely using the information provided on this page.

• If you are looking in the newspaper, read the ad carefully.  Are the parents titled?  Are the parents screened for health problems?  Is the terminology correct in the ad?  Watch out for "full blood" breeds (every dog should be full of blood), and don't be swayed by "champion lines".  It could be that the pups have a champion 6 generations back in their pedigree, and this justifies the breeder to write "champion lines".  Is the breed name spelled correctly?  Of course, typesetters sometimes make the typo-s.  Remember "papers" do not mean quality.  It only means that both parents of the litter were registered in a kennel registry.

Why not try asking your breed club, training club, vet or groomer for referrals?   It is a start.
2.  A good breeder never sells their puppies to brokers or pet stores etc.   Also, beware of the breeder who tries to sell their pups at a dog show.  Sometimes, these are the last of the litter and the breeder hopes to snare an unsuspecting/impulsive person at the show.  Note:   These dogs can still be from a quality breeder or breeding, but just beware.  Do your homework. Check health-test results on the OFA (www.OFFA.org) website.  Do NOT just take someone's word that they test. You know why we don't assume!

3.  A good breeder asks you as many questions as you ask them, and often more.  Don't be taken aback if the breeder seems to be evaluating YOU.  Don't be alarmed when the good breeder asks you to fill out a puppy application.  They want the best for their puppies.  This is their assurance that they know as much about you as they can!

4.  A good breeder stands behind their dogs and puppies for the life-time of the dog, meaning that they will take back any dog or puppy for ANY reason that a buyer can no longer keep it, just like a good rescue does.   A good breeder will refund your money (or replace the puppy or give you a second puppy) in case of a genetic or health fault in the pup as stipulated in a contract. 

• However, beware of contracts.  Because a breeder offers a contract, it does not mean that he will stand behind it.  Read the wording carefully.  Some breeders know the loopholes such as "crippling hip dysplasia".  If the pup develops hip dysplasia and is not crippled by the age that the contract stipulates, the breeder can escape any responsibility.  Try contacting references who have bought from this breeder.  Investigate the breeder's reputation. A good breeder will HAPPILY offer you references from other breeders and puppy owners.
• Do ask for references from other breeders.  Breeders that they do not co-own and co-breed with regularly.  Breeders that are not related by marriage or family.  Breeders in another state/country!  If they tell you they are the only good breeders around and no one else is any good... be wary!!  Does that REALLY seem plausible??

5.  A good breeder does not always have puppies on hand and you often have to be put on a waiting list.  Some good breeders do not breed often. Some good breeders breed yearly, but have folks waiting anywhere from 6 months to over a year to get a puppy from them!

6.  A good breeder requires a spay / neuter contract with proof the dog was altered before you'll get papers if you are not buying the dog for show purposes or they may offer limited registration. This is the best assurance that they have their this puppy will not be indiscriminately bred.  They have put years of time, effort, money, and love into their breeding program and want to do their best to preserve what they have built in their program AND their reputation!

7.  A good breeder will test their dogs for eye, hip and any other problem that can be tested for that can affect the breed.    Also, they will provide documentation to prove that the dog(s) have been screened.  Anyone can say that a dog's hips have been OFA'd, but a buyer should ask for backup.  See the above information on Health Concerns of the Basenji Breed and check www.OFFA.org to verify health test results.  

8.  A good breeder usually breeds 1-2 breeds.  It is more commonplace these days that breeders have their longtime breed and a secondary breed that they have fallen in love with and enjoy having in their home. 

• Breeders who have a large number of breeds on the property are probably in the business for reasons other than bettering the breed. 
• Question if they have 4+ litters on their premises AT THE SAME TIME.. how are they able to socialize, train, and give them all attention to the best of their ability? 
• If the breeds cycle at different times so that there is only 1 or 2 litters at once, it is much more realistic when it comes to socializing, training, and providing attention to all the pups.

9.  A good breeder often (but not always) shows their dogs in conformation and/or working trials such as obedience, Schutzhund, herding, hunting or for SAR etc.  Also, remember that function follows form and vice versa.  Dogs titled at "both ends" have often proven their correctness in structure and correctness in temperament and intelligence.

10.  A good breeder never allows their puppies  to go before eight weeks (ideal is 9 weeks for most breeds and first vaccination).  Breeders thattake their puppies away from the mother at an early age are NOT looking out for the best interests of the puppies and the dam.  Puppies need their mother to learn social skills and build up immunities through their mother's milk.

11.  A good breeder does socialization of all their puppies (meaning the pups are exposed to eight by eight....this is eight different "enviornments" by eight weeks, not just one room of a house, or one pen outside.) It iscommonplace for puppies to be reared in the middle of the house (in the living or dining room) so that they are exposed to as much commotion as possible throughout their first 8 weeks.

12.  A good breeder will let you see the puppies parents (one or both if both are owned by the breeder).   Often, this is a hint to what the pup will grow to look like, and you can also get a feel for the parents' temperament. If is very common these days to use frozen semen of neutered or dogs that have passed on, as well as shipping the bitch across the country to be bred to the best stud dog for their bitch.  In these cases, it is unlikely you would get to meet the sire of the litter.

13. A good breeder breeds only to improve their line or their breed, not for the sole purpose of making money. Every breeding has a purpose in the breeding program.  This does not mean that every single breeding will produce something that the breeder wants to continue on with and therefore they may end up choosing to place all in the litter.. but this isn't the norm.

14.  A good breeder truly loves their dogs, and treats them as pets first, taking the very best care of them that they can. They get to be loose in the house, are house-trained and crate-trained, and even sleep in bed with them!

More Tips:

• If at all possible, visit the kennel and meet both parents. If the stud isn't on the property, find out where and when he can be seen. Interact with the parents, if you don't like what you see, don't buy a puppy. If this is a repeat breeding, ask if you can see older siblings or talk to their owners.
• Check for cleanliness, overall good general health of the animals and attention to their safety and welfare. Do the puppies have fresh water? Are they happy and eager to see people? Are their eyes bright and clear? Don't be surprised if they don't smell terrific. 
• Ask the breeders what they were trying to do when they bred this litter. What strengths in the line were they trying to maintain? What weaknesses were they trying to improve? If the parents have ANY sort of titles, ask to see their paperwork. This does NOT mean their pedigree. If there is a Schutzhund title, ask to see the scorebook. If it's a CD, ask to see the certificate. Ask for their hip ratings, either German hip stamp or OFA rating. LOOK the OFA parents up at the OFA website.
• Ask for references and CALL them.
• Ask about health guarantees, and registration guarantees. Find out what your obligations are. For instance, some breeders will not meet a hip guarantee on an overweight animal. Some breeders require that a particular brand of food, or diet be used, or certain types of supplements or if a poor food (such as Beneful, Kibbles-n-Bits, Alpo, AttaBoy!) is given to the animal.
• Ask about return policies. What happens if you decide you can't keep the dog?

Whether you end up buying a puppy from them or not, a breeder should be very happy to answer your questions.

(Copied with permission from the author, Janis Novak.)


Watch out for these Red Flags:

• Breeder does not screen for diseases and offers no health guarantee
• Breeder insists his/her dogs "do not have those diseases so we don't have to test" 
• Multiple (3 or more on a regular basis) breeds are bred on site AND at the same time throughout the year
• Breeder has no written health records of the litter
• Puppies or kittens are taken from the mother before 6 weeks of age 
  
• Breeder insists on meeting puppy buyer(s) off-site

​Traits of Responsible Breeders

(Also known as the dedicated hobby breeder)

• "Into" Dogs (shows, training, clubs, etc.)
  
• Belongs to dog clubs and organizations
  
• Proves quality of dogs and suitability for breeding by competing for titles and certificates in conformation, obedience, agility, field trials, Schutzhund, herding, tracking, earthdog trials, etc.
  
• Pups' pedigrees are filled with dogs who have obtained show titles/working certificates; never breeds dogs without "papers"
  
• Supports rescue groups; knows his actions inevitably play some part in pet overpopulation and euthanasia (one of every four dogs in shelters is purebred). Even with all his efforts to stem over- population, he knows "cracks" will lead to canine deaths
• Knowledgeable in every facet of breed, including that of health issues/defects; researches genetics when choosing mates
  
• Knowledgeable about house breaking, training, socializing, breeding, health; constantly reads dog-related materials
  
• Can and will help and educate puppy buyers re these issues
  
• Willing to give you his references or fellow breeders, previous puppy buyers, and dog club members
  
• Knows his puppies' ancestry
  
• Follows up on puppies' well-being; collects health information affecting his dogs
  
• Breeds to improve his own dogs, his bloodlines and the breed
  
• Does not use dog breeding as a business and strives for quality, not quantity, so may skip years between breedings
  
• Only occasionally repeats a breeding
  
• Breeds only dogs which meet the breed standard
  
• Breeds only dogs with stable temperaments
  
• Breeds only dogs over 2 years old (with exceptions to those that have been pre-lim tested), and a limited number of times
  
• Mate choice could be anywhere in the country or frozen semen if the dog is neutered or has since passed on
  
• Does all genetic testing and will provide proof; does not breed animals with genetic defects or which are carriers of defects
  
• Puppies are often sold from waiting list created before breeding even takes place
  
• Pet-quality pups generally cost $800-1,200 (depending on the breed and the particular breeding at hand) and show-quality usually costs more
  
• Puppies are sold with health guarantees
  
• Puppies are sold with contracts
  
• Requires pups back if new homes don't work out
  
• Dogs on property are friendly, socialized, trained
  
• Does not own more dogs than he has room, time or money for; Dogs are groomed, exercised, healthy, happy
  
• Will show you pups' parents if available, or if not, will have pictures available for you to see
  
• Raises puppies indoors
  
• Stays home to care for puppies
  
• Feeds only premium dog food
  
• Visitors remove shoes and wash hands to prevent spread of parvovirus
  
• Keeps pups with mom and litter a minimum of 49 days to ensure sibling socialization and important lessons from pups' mother
  
• Socializes pups by systematically handling them and exposing them to various noises, children and other animals before sending them to new homes
  
• Tests pups to match their temperaments and drives with buyers' personalities and lifestyles
  
• Can honestly evaluate pups' quality
  
• Never sells to "impulse" buyers
  
• Never sells two pups at the same time to a novice owner
  
• Interviews prospective buyers, checks home and references, refuses to sell to substandard homes
  
• Wants to meet whole family; won't sell if children or parents appear abusive 
  
• Sells only to buyers with disposable income (AKC reports it costs $1327 per year to properly care for a dog)
  
• Waits for buyers who offer lifelong homes (Knows that only 30 percent of all dogs stay in one home throughout their lives)
  
• Understands dogs are "pack" animals; sells pets only to buyers wanting to make pup an indoor dog and part of the family
  
• Sells only to buyers who make pup's safety a priority
  
• Encourages or requires buyers to spay/neuter pet-quality pups
  
• Encourages buyers to train pups; refers to good trainer
  
• Makes sure buyers understand pup's considerable need for time, attention, exercise and training

Responsible Breeders Improve the Breed!

​Traits of Backyard Breeders

(NOT to be confused with the dedicated hobby breeder)

• Not "into" dogs (has "pets" around the house)
  
• Is not involved in the "dog world"
  
• Quality of dogs is almost always substandard, however, he does not test his dogs in shows or trials (Dogs are just pets or "breeding machines")

•  Pedigrees mostly a list of pets bred by backyard breeders; pups may not even have "papers"; may be mongrels (Cockapoos, etc.)
  
• Honestly believes that because he places/sells all his pups, he does not contribute in any way to the needless slaughter of millions of dogs per year in shelters (Does not see his role in his pups making pups and them making more pups and so on)
  
• Not particularly educated about breed, often not aware of his own breed's genetic defects; does not consider mate's genetics
  
• Has own ideas which may not coincide with professionals' opinions; won't bother to read any of the hundreds of dog books available
  
• Says "Goodbye" and "Good luck"
  
• Has little to no references, especially from fellow breeders or dog club members
  
• Knows nothing about the other dogs on puppies' pedigrees
  
• Does not concern himself with the puppies' well-being or how puppies' health affects his breeding "plan"
  
• Breeds just to breed or make money or see his "great dog" procreate
  
• Breeds regularly if for money or if puppy mill; if for ego, breeds once in awhile, or "just once" before neutering or spaying
  
• Often repeats breedings, mainly those that are cheap and convenient
  
• Dogs used for breeding rarely meet breed standard
  
• Breeds shy/aggressive dogs with poor temperaments
  
• Breeds dogs at almost any age, and commonly on females very first heat cycle, and any number of times
  
• Mate choice is that which is convenient, cheap, local (very often owns both sire and dam)
  
• Does little to no genetic testing; ignorantly breeds defective animals or those which are carriers, thus, perpetuating disease in breed
  
• Puppies are sold after birth in the local newspaper, first-come, first-served, or on eBay or Craigslist ads
  
• All pups are pet-quality and are relatively cheap, usually $200-$400, though some puppy mills and BYB have enormous prices to try and make themselves look like good breeders
  
• Puppies are sold with no guarantee
  
• No contracts; does not care what you do with puppies
  
• Says "Find them good homes"
  
• Dogs on property may be aggressive or shy, and untrained
  
• Puppy mills are overloaded, "warehoused" dogs are not groomed or exercised, don't look healthy or happy
  
• Might have to "lock up" pups' aggressive or shy parents (dogs that should never have been bred)
  
• Raises puppies outdoors or in a barn, shed, shop, or garage
  
• Dam and pups are alone for long hours
  
• Feeds cheap, grocery store dog food (containing 4D meat/chemicals)
  
• Has no understanding and takes no precautions to prevent puppy-killer disease
  
• Doesn't know leaving litter earlier can cause lifelong temperament problems or staying too long can hurt bonding with humans
  
• Does not understand or want to be troubled with any kind of training that takes time, effort, or money; just tries to keep puppies quiet and contained until sold
• Knows nothing about puppy-testing or matching puppies with buyers; allows buyers to pick the "cutest" one
  
• Says all pups are high quality
  
• Is not concerned about buyers being prepared for pups
  
• Would consider this killing two birds with one sale
  
• Sells first-come, first-served to whomever has the cash; does not find out which homes are substandard
  
• Does not consider anything past obtaining the funds; doens't find it necessary to meet the family 
  
• Is not concerned whether or not buyers can afford to properly care for pups
  
• Does not reject high-risk buyers: (renters, young people, those with poor track records, low income, other pets, dogs kept outdoors)
  
• Doesn't care if pups live as outdoor dogs or chained dogs, being unhappy or anxious being isolated and separated from "packs"
  
• Does not consider pups' best interests
  
• Encourages buyers to breed, regardless of quality
  
• Shows no concern for pups after sale; knows no trainers
  
• Does not provide even his own dogs with enough time, attention, exercise or training
  

Backyard Breeders Damage the Breed!

​Use This Guide To Obtain A Quality Puppy From A Responsible Breeder

And be aware that dogs are not "things." They are living creatures who, by no choice of their own, are totally dependent upon us - and are at our mercy - for their very survival, not to mention quality of life. As pack animals, their mental health is dependent upon being with their pack. That may be other animals, or it may be us. It is very cruel to leave a dog alone all day. Dogs need a lot of attention. They need regular, systematic aerobic exercise for at least 20-30 minutes, at least 3-4 times a week, just to be healthy. Few dogs get the exercise they need for good physical and mental health.

• Lack of exercise is the number one reason, (then lack of training), that dogs become mischievous and burdensome, and are then blamed, then dumped, and too often, killed. ("A tired dog is a good dog.") 
• Having a yard is not sufficient. Dogs do not exercise themselves unless chasing something along the fence line, and that, in and of itself, is a problem. 
• To make good pets, they need training. 
• And most importantly, to be safe pets, they need early socialization. Lack of socialization the first 4-6 months of a dog's life creates shy dogs, which too-often become fear-biters, which, along with those who were simply born with poor temperaments, are responsible for the majority of the 4.7 million dog bites annually. (Sixty percent of victims are children; Half of all kids 12 and under have been bitten by a dog; Every day more than 900 people are hospitalized with dog bites; Every year 25 people are killed by dogs.)

If you can not be a responsible dog owner, please wait until you can be.

And please don't breed out of greed or ego or for any reason other than to improve the breed (i.e., to make the puppies better than their parents). Most purebred dogs, and of course, all mixed-breed dogs, should not be bred. The majority of dogs have some defect (in structure, temperament, health) that should not be perpetuated. Dogs used for breeding should be free of all defects - that's the definition of quality. ("Papers" mean nothing; They are simply, and nothing more than, birth certificates. Plenty of dogs have "papers," but are so poorly bred they actually look like mutts.) And no human should ever breed any dog without veterinary/laboratory testing and pedigree research to be sure that dog is free of (and not a carrier of) genetic defects. 


FAILURE TO TEST/SEARCH FOR INHERITABLE HEALTH PROBLEMS IS THE NUMBER ONE MARK OF A BACKYARD BREEDER. IT IS ALSO THE MOST DAMAGING TO CANINES, AND THE MOST HEARTBREAKING TO PUPPY-BUYERS, WHO END UP WITH YET ANOTHER GENERATION OF POOR-QUALITY DOGS WHO TOO OFTEN DEVELOP EXPENSIVE, EARLY HEALTH PROBLEMS AND OFTEN DIE PREMATURELY.

We have a severe pet-overpopulation crisis in the US; We slaughter thousands of beautiful, vital, healthy dogs every single day. (Twenty-five percent of shelter dogs are purebred.) Every puppy produced by a backyard breeder and placed in a home takes the place of one killed in a shelter because no one adopted it. And every puppy produced by a backyard breeder can make more puppies, and those puppies can make more and so on. (And of course, backyard breeders, through their encouragement apuppies nd the dispersal of misinformation, have a knack for turning uneducated buyers into yet more backyard breeders.) There just are not enough homes (not to mention "good" homes) available for all these puppies. No matter how hard one tries, only 30 percent of all dogs (and their pups and their pups and so on) live their entire lives in the home to which they went after weaning. Seventy percent will be given away or abandoned or dumped along the way for one reason or another. (Common excuses are, "We didn't have time for him," "He was too much trouble," "He kept jumping on us," "He bit my child," "We couldn't afford him," "We had to move." None of these were good homes to begin with. The buyers failed to socialize or train, or they lacked time, money or commitment. Again, there just are not enough "good" homes for all the puppies born.) Why not leave breeding dogs to those with the ability and desire and quality animals to do so at a "professional" level?

If everyone bred only dogs with excellent conformation, and stable, correct temperaments, working titles and clean health, we would have top-quality dogs in this country. 

• Get your dog evaluated by judges and trainers. If he meets breed standard, and is healthy, and has the correct temperament and drives, show him, work him, and get him titled. If you feel you have what it takes to be a "hobby" breeder, educate yourself, and with enough experience in dogs, maybe you, too, could make a positive contribution to your breed. 
• But if your dog's only credentials are that it is a great pet, then love it, socialize it, train it, exercise it, give it the best in feed, comfort and veterinary care, but for it's own good (including better health - ask your vet!), and for the sake of puppy-buyers, society, and all canines, get it spayed or neutered.

Resist the Greed; Don't Support Backyard Breeders, and Certainly Don't Become One.

Copyright © 1999 Victoria Rose, PO Box 4816, Auburn, CA 95604
Proud mom of the beautiful Dobermann Calidancer V Teraden, CD, OA, AD, OAC, OGC, NJC, RS-N, GS-N, JS-N, CGC
(As a pup she cost $900. She is trained in obedience, agility, personal protection, wheelchair assistance and tricks ...And she is spayed.)

Document may be reproduced in its entirety (not in sections), as long as the author is credited.

​Reading, Understanding and Researching Pedigrees:

Linebreeding:

• Quite often you will see on a pedigree a statement that that particular dog or litter has been linebred on another dog. When you talk about linebreeding, to most people that means that a dog (or it can be siblings) appears in the pedigree of both the sire and the dam. It is no more than 5 generations back.
• Linebreeding on a particular dog is a decision that should be made before breeding takes place, and is usually done to emphasize or bring out the qualities in the litter of the dog (or dogs) to be linebred on.  
• Linebreeding can be a very useful tool in a breeding program. 
• By linebreeding on a very genetically influential dog, you can bring out the qualities of that dog generations down the line without heavy inbreeding. 
• However, linebreeding on a particular dog may also bring out the less than desirable qualities of that dog in the progeny, so it should be done with caution and education.

When reading a pedigree's linebreeding, the number designates what generation of the original dog. The first number applies to the sire's side and is usually separated by a "-", meaning this is now the dam's side. When there are more than two numbers, it means that the dog appears more than once on that side of the pedigree.  So now, (5,4-5) means that the dog appears a total of 3 times in the dogs pedigree, twice in the fifth generation and once in the fourth. The dog isin the sire's side of the pedigree twice (5,4) and on the dam's side once (-5).

SV Breeders Rules:    will not allow linebreeding closer than 2-3 or 3-2 (including with siblings of those dogs). Linebred 2-3 is the maximum.
     (these rules DO NOT apply to the U.S.A., as the AKC does not impose restrictions on breedings here).

A good way to practice determining linebreeding is to look at a pedigree for which the linebreeding is known, and see if you can find the dogs in the right generations. There are also some websites (see links at bottom of page) which will tell you the linebreeding on a particular dog.

Inbreeding:    While most linebreeding is also inbreeding, most don't consider a breeding to be an actual "inbreeding" unless the common ancestor is in the first or second generation such as a mother and son breeding etc..  Warning:  Inbreeding can be very dangerous and is known for bringing out "faults"
or other problems (including genetic ones) in a particular bloodline.

Outcrossing:    An outcross breeding is one in which the sire and dam do not share any common ancestors in the last 5 generations. Outcrossing may be done to bring together unrelated bloodlines that may compliment each other.